“The rumors are true…we removed the gusset,” read an Instagram post last month from Imperfect Pointes, the UK-based brand of sustainable tights and leotards. It sparked a flurry of reactions. “Finally someone did this,” wrote one user. “Can’t wait to try it!” replied Anna Nevzorova, a first soloist with English National Ballet.
A gusset is the triangular insert in the crotch of a pair of tights originally present to enhance the strength of the garment and allow for greater movement and durability. It appears in nearly every piece of hosiery, both in and outside of the dance world. So why are dancers so eager to bid it farewell?
Listening to the Professionals
Imperfect Pointes founder Helen Banks took control of all stages of production for the brand’s tights last year, after previously manufacturing them in partnership with Swedish Stockings. While sustainability is one of the brand’s unique selling points—the tights are made from recycled nylon and the company runs a tights recycling program—Banks saw this as an opportunity to refine the tights’ aesthetic value.
“We want [the tights] to last longer and keep their color, but they also have to be the best design to justify the price point,” Banks says on a call from her hometown of Manchester. “Most dancers are not buying ballet tights simply because they are sustainably made. It’s the ways in which they are sustainable that are attractive.” To help determine what design changes to make, she sought feedback from dance companies she supplies, including Royal Danish Ballet and English National Ballet. The consensus was that, ideally, they would like the tights to be thinner and for the gusset to be removed.
“When a dancer is performing a position with their leg in the air, or being lifted, you don’t want to see an unsightly gusset,” Banks explains, who had also noticed this issue during her daughter’s class sharings and recitals. “It’s not ideal, especially during an important performance. You don’t want it to look like you’re wearing a panty liner.”
The gusset’s removal also reflects current trends in how dancers wear their tights. “As professionals, we often wear tights over our leotards for class and rehearsal,” says English National Ballet first artist Ashley Coupal. “Removing the gusset creates a seamless look.” According to Tia Wenkman, a dancer with the Royal Swedish Ballet, professional dancers also usually fold the waistline of tights over. So, in addition to removing the gusset, “Imperfect Pointes has perfected their waistband as it is very seamless, comfortable, and extra-wide compared to most brands,” Wenkman says.
Testing the Change
To implement the removal, Imperfect Pointes switched to a different recycled-nylon fabric called 3D Q-Nova by Flugar, a well-known and respected brand in the tights industry. This enabled the company to “provide the necessary strength and durability without the need for an insert and getting a cleaner look at the same time,” says Banks. During product testing, only one tester out of 20 noticed the gusset was gone without being told. When they were informed, “it was like, ‘Oh, my god, that’s genius,’ ” Banks recalls.
A few dancers have had reservations about the removal, however, mainly due to concerns around sweat buildup in the crotch area. While Banks doesn’t suggest the new tights will show more sweat, she believes that sweat patches are a natural side effect of dancers working hard. She refers to American Ballet Theatre principal Skylar Brandt on Instagram proudly showcasing the sweat marks on her chest after intense rehearsals. “The reality of ballet is not perfect. That’s why I called my brand Imperfect Pointes. I like this idea of dancers showing their authentic selves.”
Will other tights brands ride the wave and also say goodbye to gussets? Only time will tell.
Emily May is the editor of Dance Retailer News.