In recent years, the dance community has strived to be more inclusive, but there’s always room to go further. When it comes to dancewear, dancers want options that suit their individual needs—whether that means challenging gender norms or simply wearing items that make them feel comfortable, regardless of who they were designed for. Retailers are taking notice and responding.
Challenging Gender Norms in Ballet
Philip Martin-Nielson, owner of Balletomania in Poughkeepsie, NY, was a dancer with Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo for 12 years. The dance company sees men play traditionally female roles, and many of the men dance on pointe. Martin-Nielson began pointe at 12 years old, but back then, he says, it was considered very taboo. Since then, he’s seen attitudes shift. “[There’s] definitely much more acceptance within the dance community,” he says.
It’s unsurprising then that, due to his personal experiences, he’s mindful to avoid gender bias when fitting dancers for pointe. “The same rules apply [to all genders] as to any young girl that’s about to start pointe work,” Martin-Nielson says. “As long as you have approval from your teacher, are strong enough, and have the training to back it up, there really is no reason anybody shouldn’t be dancing on pointe. All dancers should be respected for being dancers. It doesn’t matter what type of foot they have or [how they identify].”
Having previously danced with the Estonian National Ballet and Los Angeles Ballet, Andrea Fabbri is a current member of Les Ballet de Trockadero—a company he has always seen as “a place where people truly enjoy being fully themselves.” He first danced on pointe onstage with the Estonian National Opera, where a couple of men were put on pointe for a specific part of the show. However, it was at Les Ballet de Trockadero that dancing on pointe truly became a central part of his artistry—and where he was also introduced to performing in tutus and tiaras.
When it comes to purchasing pointe shoes, Fabbri says his feet are fairly large, which makes it difficult. He says he had a really positive experience at the Bloch and Capezio stores in London when he was hired and started rehearsals with Les Ballet de Trockadero. He started out with the Capezio Ava model, but now wears Bloch Serenade, which he gets from Bloch’s New York City store. For dancewear, he enjoys rehearsing in leotards from Zara or by Wear Moi, typically taking a larger size made for females to accommodate his frame. He also wears hand-me-downs from fellow dancers and shorts from Só Dança.
Retailers’ Responses to Evolving Needs
Rose Kirshner, owner of SF Dance Gear in San Francisco, has observed a spirit of inclusion for gender-nonconforming dancers in the area. She cites Ballet 22/BlackBox Studios in nearby Oakland as a studio producing and presenting works that break gender-normative traditions, specifically by presenting men, trans, and nonbinary artists on pointe. She also notes that some local dance schools are moving away from traditional gendered language, offering “Option 1” and “Option 2” costume choices instead of labeling them as male or female.
For her own part, Kirshner makes sure to stock Bloch, Nikolay, and Capezio pointe shoes in larger sizes, as sizing is typically a challenge for men and trans women. She also offers larger sizes of Só Dança and Eurotard leotards, and even biketards. While done with men and trans women in mind, this ultimately contributes to a broader view of what a traditional ballet dancer should look like. “I have sometimes had dancers come in saying that they’ve had a bad experience somewhere else, either because of who they are or their size,” says Kirshner.
In his last few years as a professional dancer, Martin-Nielson was increasingly interested in fashion leotards from Nikolay, and didn’t see them as female dancewear. “I just saw them as beautiful garments that I wanted to wear,” he says. “I think that’s the approach that dance retailers should take when they’re bringing in dancewear—just think about what’s going to make people feel beautiful.”
Year-Round Support for the LGBTQ+ Community
Both Martin-Nielson and Kirshner are members of the LGBTQ+ community, so they make sure to show support year-round. “I know that June is Pride month,” Kirshner says, adding that she showcases a rainbow-colored assortment of pointe shoes in the store window to celebrate, “but we celebrate Pride at SF Dance Gear here every single day.”
Martin-Nielson’s store supports the Dutchess County Pride Center, which is right down the street. He has collected and donated clothes for its “Trans Closet,” which provides trans people in need with clothing. He’s also participated in makeup and acting workshops with the organization’s community members.
The Bottom Line
The LGBTQ+ community is an important part of the larger dance community. Making them feel welcome, understood, and appreciated is key to connecting with this important audience.
Erica Iacono is a writer living in New York City who often writes about marketing and small businesses.