As the president of the Dancewear Association of Canada (DAC) during its latest changes, I can say that as far as I know, this was a unique situation in the dance industry: In Canada, until April of this year, the DAC’s Code of Ethics barred member-suppliers from selling directly to consumers. Many major suppliers—including Bloch, Merlet, Capezio, Eurotard, and more—are members.
In a world where most brands sell direct to consumers online, barring suppliers from selling DTC became increasingly unsustainable. Over the past few years, member suppliers grew frustrated with the restrictions, and many hinted that they might leave the DAC.
Since 1991, the DAC has brought Canadian dance retailers and suppliers together, fostering a spirit of collegiality and cooperation that has been beneficial to the industry. The DAC board knew that the members didn’t want to lose that, but the board also didn’t want a situation where retailers and suppliers were fighting each other for business. They wanted to find a win-win solution.
To their credit, DAC supplier members were open to investigating alternatives to an online free-for-all, so back in the fall of 2024 the board struck a working group to look at the issue. What they uncovered through their research opened everyone’s eyes.
Research Revelations
Most assume that a brand or supplier will make more money by selling direct to their consumers (DTC), as they would make the wholesale plus the retail margin. But a 2021 study by BMO Capital Markets found that the reverse was true. Looking at a large number of brands that sold both wholesale and DTC—including Vera Bradley, Ralph Lauren, Nike, Skechers, Columbia Sportswear, Canada Goose, Under Armour, PUMA, and Urban Outfitters—the study found that margins were better from wholesale. The cost of acquiring a customer, free shipping, and high return rates eat away at profitability. The bottom line? Brands make more money selling to stores than directly to customers.
DAC’s research also found that even when buying online, consumers preferred to do so from a business that also has a brick-and-mortar store. Seventy percent of consumers who knew about buy-online/pickup-in-store planned on using that service—a fact also supported by this NRF study from 2017. They also preferred to shop online from a site where they could return in-store if necessary.
The working group also looked at the importance of proper fit and the crucial role stores play on that front, especially when it comes to pointe shoes. They also discussed the lack of dancewear-brand recognition among average consumers. If the industry drives shoppers online, it sends the message that fit doesn’t matter. If fit doesn’t matter and dance-specific manufacturers lack strong brand recognition, consumers might as well pick up cheap dancewear on Temu.
Finding Balance
Despite the research, DAC suppliers told the working group that they still wanted to sell directly, in part because it gave them access to markets in which no stores carry their products. Selling through their own websites also offered them the possibility to showcase models and styles not carried by local stores. At the same time, they recognized that for the Canadian dancewear industry to remain healthy, it was necessary to develop a digital strategy that keeps brick-and-mortar stores at the center, while still acknowledging that consumers also want the option to shop online.
The working group discussed, debated, and developed online guidelines for all members, which were unanimously approved by supplier members. At a special meeting of the majority of retail members, they too voted in favor. The guidelines—which went into effect on April 7, 2025—require supplier websites to prominently feature messaging about the importance of being properly fitted for dance shoes. Retailers’ websites will also highlight the importance of fit, and both supplier and retailer sites will link to an article on the DAC website explaining why fit matters.
Supplier websites will also clearly and prominently direct consumers to their retail partners. Meanwhile, the DAC will create training programs to help retailers enhance their websites, and some suppliers will work directly with retailers to improve their online presence.
Building Brands and Boosting Collaboration
In the new DAC guidelines, the primary role of supplier websites is to help build their brands. They will also provide materials to DAC retailers about their brand for use on their websites. Retailers and suppliers will collaborate to raise awareness of dancewear brands.
In line with consumer preferences, most online sales are expected to go through retailers’ websites. But if a consumer prefers to buy directly from a Canadian supplier’s website, they can now do so.
The DAC online-retail plan addresses the challenges of an increasingly digital world by encouraging suppliers and retailers to work together for mutual benefit. By promoting the importance of proper fit, building brand recognition, and driving consumers to brick-and-mortar stores, both suppliers and retailers can increase profitability while better serving dancers.
The Bottom Line
The plan is still a work in progress and everyone is working to meet the guidelines, which are only available to members at this time. Some suppliers have revised their sites, others are holding off, and some will not sell DTC. But the will to make it work is there. Slowly, over the next year or so, the pieces will fall into place. The Canadian industry will be better for it, and it is a model of cooperation that could work well in other countries.
Gilbert Russell was the president of the Dancewear Association of Canada from January 2024 until May 2025, overseeing the implementation of their new guidelines for online retail transactions. He is a seasoned dancewear retailer who helps independent stores thrive through his book Retail AI Unleashed, coaching programs, speaking engagements, and weekly newsletter.